First things first, brush,
before every bath brush the coat out, making
sure you get all the way down to the skin, and
never leave even the tiniest matt or tangle,
because if you do, it will be a HUGE tangle and
mat when the bath is done. I have found that a
good children's detangle is a wonderful thing to
use daily and before bathing to get those
tiresome mats and tangle out and keep them out.
Keeping a PON's whites white can be a challenge
of monumental proportions, but I think these
tips will help considerable. I use water bottles
to for water. This helps keep their faces and a
little drier. Bottled water is also a help
because some waters are harder than others, and
have certain minerals in them that can cause
discoloration. Minerals such as iron, etc.
Whitening is an ongoing grooming activity and
needs to be addressed every day with daily
grooming/cleaning and routine bathing. Use soda
water to help remove fresh stains after each
meal.
Periodic bathing is very important and when a
puppy or adult PON is dirty they need a bath.
No one wants to be around a smelly dirty dog,
and since they are a part of your home and
family, you want it to be a positive experience
for everyone and not one that sends everyone
shrieking and running from the room when an
adult PON or puppy enters. Bathe your PON as you
normally do using your shampoo of choice. I do
use human shampoo and then a good Whitener and
brightener shampoo secondly. If the whites are
extremely dirty for some reason (grass stains,
rain, leaves, grit, sand, mud, and salt (which
can be toxic to your PON) from winter road
mixes, etc, etc., etc., in these instances be
sure to use extra shampoo and work it in really
really well establishing a thick lather and
suds. You may have to re-wet the puppy or PON a
little in this process. (Always work the shampoo
from the body out in the direction of coat
growth. Going "against the grain" will result in
a huge matted mess you will regret, and I nor
anyone else will have to explain again! A fine
"jet" stream from a spray bottle will help get
the shampoo deep into the coat before you begin
working it into a good lather. You can get a
good spray bottle at one of the Retail Super
Stores, other retail stores or beauty supply
stores.
An extra heavy shampooing
such as should remove all the dirt and will go a
long way to helping remove some of the staining
on the white areas of the dog. Lather the PON
and work the shampoo in for about 8 - 10 minutes
then rinse your dog really well with warm water
to ensure that all the shampoo is out and the
coat is again thoroughly wet down to the skin.
Be sure the water is not to hot and burn your
little fur baby. Check the temperature on the
inside of your wrist. It should be warm, but not
hot or cold. Cold water tends to close the hair
follicle and "seal it up and hold the stains in.
Step two is much the same
as the first except you want to use a
brightening and whitening shampoo. Using a
dedicated whitening shampoo made to remove
stains and rewash the white areas. There are
multiple whitening shampoos from which to
choose. If you are using a dog shampoo for the
regular cleaning, chances are that the same
company makes a whitening shampoo and that
should be your first try. Whitening shampoo from
the same brand name as the general cleaning
shampoo should ensure compatibility and prevent
any irritating or allergy triggering reactions.
This is not common, but it doe occasionally
happen. Watch for reddening skin, (more than
usual with bathing, rashes, skin scratch, etc.).
If, you use a good
quality human shampoo (I particularly like the
Aussie products available at most retailers) for
regular bathing, try any whitening shampoo as
your first choice. I have had particular success
with Cardinal Gold Medal Blue Diamond Shampoo
available at Petsmart and the Coat Handler brand
of shampoo available online. Also Pet Edge
offers a wonderful selection of shampoos and
certain ones will work better for the stains
your PON (It never ceases to amaze me that a
blue shampoo can make things brilliantly white.)
Apply the shampoo and work it in thoroughly and
in accordance with directions let it sit for a
time. Cardinal recommends 5-10 minutes, I give
it 10 minutes and often 12-15 for particularly
stubborn stains. Once it has "processed" for the
recommended time rinse the coat clear of shampoo
and complete the bathing with a good
conditioning treatment. I also use a good human
leave in conditioner that I mist on just before
blow drying. (The whites can be conditioned as
they are naturally a softer coat texture than
the grizzle but be careful not to soften the
coarse coat if you are showing.
Make sure the coat is
thoroughly dried before letting your now clean
PON loose. A wet coat will stain incredibly
quickly and those stains set in more stubbornly
and quickly if the coat is wet when he stain
happens.
Taking the time for daily whitening can be
accomplished in short order and goes along way
in keeping pristine coat. Around the face and
beard area which typically gets very wet while
drinking and stays at least damp the white beard
can stain from pink to a dark brown depending on
how "wet mouthed" the dog is, how much water
he/she gets and how sloppy an eater he/she is.
After brushing out the beard and affected upper
chest area the coat can be sprayed with a
hydrogen peroxide or lemon water solution. I
like the peroxide for speed and "intensity" of
results. Be cautious though not to wet the coat
down to the skin as peroxide will dry the skin
and may even cause burning if enough gets on the
skin directly, especially if there is food
debris or dirt on the skin with which it will
react. If this occurs immediately rinse you pet
with cool water until all shampoo or peroxide is
gone. Generally about 8 - 10 minutes. CAUTION,
DO NOT get this in your adult PON or puppy's
eyes! Once the peroxide has finished processing
with the protein part of the stain (foaming and
heating stops) rinse the area with a damp face
cloth and dry thoroughly. The beard will now be
free of food debris and much whiter than when
you started. If the coat is not quite dry enough
corn starch is a good additive. I use the
Cornstarch baby powder, and you can apply it
with a makeup brush or small eyebrow brush. It
both dries any remaining moisture and whitens
the hair.
Another more subtle method
is baking soda mixed with a small amount of
water to make a paste and then rub into the
stained white areas will assist in the removal
of some stains. This will not be as ultimately
effective in removing large or dark stains as
the peroxide, but it is gentler to the coat and
less drying to the skin. As well this mixture
will not heat up like the peroxide, but again it
is less effective.
Also available if the coat
is essentially clean are a variety of chalks
and/ corn starch are available where you
purchase show supplies. (Cherry Brook) These are
specific blends of chalks ground to very
specific consistency for use in the show ring.
They have no cleaning properties at all but
cover up or mask stains. Also a little mink oil
spray available at most retail stores in the
shampoo sections gives them that "Show Glow"!
Use sparingly or you will have a oily coat!
Of course a pound of prevention is far better
than cure than trying to correct the problem
afterwards. By limiting your PON's access to
outside factors such as mud, rain, grass, etc.
you will substantially help in keeping him/her
bright, white and clean, but after all they are
dogs and they love to be outside and play and
by the perverse laws of fate, which guide
children and dogs they are only interested in
these things when freshly bathed! Once our
little beauties are dirty again these items are
of absolutely no interest whatsoever to them and
they will disdainful walk around them or refuse
to walk in them at all and insist on being
carried!
I hope this helps you with
all of your coat questions and helps you with
bathing your PON. Here is a list of the
products
I have mentioned:
1. Regular Shampoo - Human
or Dog
2. Whitener Brightener
Shampoo - Pet Shampoo
3. Conditioner - Human or
Dog
4. Leave In Conditioner -
Human
5 . Detangling Spray -
Human Children
6. Mink Oil Spray
7. Spray bottles
8. Pin Brush
9. Slicker Brush
10. Rat Tailed Comb
11. Metal Comb with both
wide and narrow teeth
12. Plastic hair pick
G ood
professional shampoos:
- Top Performance (be sure to dilute correctly)
- Mr. Christal's (can be oily is used
improperly)
- BioGroom (can by drying, be advised)
- Nova Pearls (actually available at Petco - but
still a nice shampoo)
- Bark 2 Basics
- Nature's Specialties (very expensive, but
amazing shampoo)
~ Nature's Choice (slicker and conditioner -
conditioner takes a while to rinse)
- Groomer's Edge
- Cindra (can also be drying if diluted
improperly)
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